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Author Topic: Hardly eating and wont really move from basking area  (Read 365 times)
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Nightshade309
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« on: August 31, 2011, 09:46:39 AM »

Heya, I was bought a bearded dragon 2 days ago as a present, I think it's age is around 2-3months and I'm not sure what sex. In those 2 days my beardie has only eaten 2 crickets and wont really move from the basking area. It just sits up on the branch with its mouth open. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix this? (I live in the UK)
Also if you want a picture of it then please message me with your email as the size is too pic to attach

Many thanks
Vanth
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« on: August 31, 2011, 09:46:39 AM »

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Nightshade309
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« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2011, 09:53:24 AM »

Heya, I was bought a bearded dragon 2 days ago as a present, I think it's age is around 2-3months and I'm not sure what sex. In those 2 days my beardie has only eaten 2 crickets and wont really move from the basking area. It just sits up on the branch with its mouth open. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix this? (I live in the UK)
Also if you want a picture of it then please message me with your email as the size is too pic to attach

Many thanks
Vanth
Sorry slight edit, I think he is withing the region of 6 weeks, I've just seen some other beardies of that age and he looks very similar in size
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ladyknite
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2011, 03:18:35 PM »

2 days is typically what we call relocation stress.  How are you checking his temperature at basking?
For now, cover the glass sides of his enclosure with paper so he can't see out.  Except for soaking and feeding don't put your hands in there much.  Let him be except to check him for a few days, noticing if he eats any more each time you attempt to feed.  When you see his appetite increase, begin removing the paper one sheet per day.  At the end of a week to two weeks he should be up and chasing like a champ.  But keep us updated and we'll try to head off anything we see out of the ordinary.
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Nightshade309
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« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2011, 05:32:00 PM »

Heya, I have a wooden viv and the the only glass bit is the sliding doors at the front so he can't see out any other way. I have a thermostat on each end of the viv, one in the warm area and one in the cool area and they can be moved if I need to check temps elsewhere. Today he has eaten 7 crickets which is an improvement. He keeps scratching at the glass, I read that he may want attention so I approached his viv and he went back to basking. He doesn't seem to want to chase his food, if its near him he will eat it but if not he doesn't bother. Also would a light timer be worth buying? If so could you please post a link with the ideal one as I've come across loads. Once again,

Many thanks
Vanth
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Mach10X
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Mr. Anderson...


« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2011, 06:17:04 PM »

Hey there and welcome.  Please check out our caresheet CLICK HERE for CARESHEET.  It will have lots more info than what I'm going to include here, it's really worth a thorough read.

You can upload an image to photobucket or any other image hosting site then post it in here using the link to it like this:
Code:
[img]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j244/Mach10X/Thor-Signature-03-1.jpg[/img]

I've found that electronic timers are fussy unless you spend a lot of money.  I've been using this type and it works great:


You're really going to want to get a more accurate way of measuring temperatures.
My favorite and the easiest way to read temps is with an infrared temperature gun.  Since you feed with crickets, I'm going to assume you live in the continental USA.  www.tempgun.com has a great price on a low end temp gun.  You get an instant reading by pressing a button.
Tempgun:


The only other accepted way to get accurate temperatures is with a probe thermometer:
One of these:


The probe needs to stay in contact with the basking area (not floating above it).
It's probably a good idea to get one of these regardless of if you get a temp gun.  I have several, and use one in my roach bin (yes I raise tropical cockroaches as feeders).

These questions are optional, and you'll find all the answers to these questions in the caresheet link I put up above, feel free to run us through your husbandry.  I'll mark out questions I've already answered for you above here or you've mentioned in your posts.

1. How large is your enclosure (tanks size in gallons or measurement Length x Depth x Height)?
2. What exact brand of UVB source do you have, if any?  Is it a tube, coil, or Mercury Vapor?
3. How old is the UVB bulb?
4. How far is the UVB source from the basking spot?
5. How hot is the basking spot in ºF or ºC?
6. What temperature is the cool side?
7. How exactly is this temperature measured (sticker thermometer, digital thermometer with a probe, temp gun, other)?  You said thermostat, please tell us exactly what this is, and describe it to us.
8. If using a probe, it is placed flush against the basking spot?
9. What live feeders does your dragon get?  How many are offered?  How often are they offered per day / week?  Keep in mind that young dragons need to be offered as many as they can eat in about 5-10 minutes, please don't limit them.
10. What Calcium and/or Vitamin supplements do you use (brand name and product name please)?
11. How often do you dust with calcium or vitamin powder?
12. What exact greens, fruits, or veggies do you feed your dragon?  Does he eat them at all?
13. Hydration.  Do you mist your dragon, have a water bowl, or soak your dragon in a bath?
14. If you soak your dragon in a bath, how long do you soak for, how often, and what temperature water?
15. What type of substrate do you use (shelf liner, sand, walnut, tiles, newspaper, etc)?

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