Not sure if there's a good guide out there, but I thought I would share my knowledge and experience with keeping Dubia roaches over the past 4 years.
First some info on Blaptica Dubia: Dubia roaches live approx 2-3 years (crickets live about 2.5 months by comparison). The roach itself is odorless docile and will not bite (hungry roaches will attempt to nibble though). They are sexually dimorphic as adults, males have large wings though they are flightless. Females are larger with tiny stubs where wings should be. Dubia adults and nymphs cannot climb smooth vertical surfaces. Adult males will occasionally jump and flutter, therefore a lid is necessary. Dubias have a simple social structure with males being territorial, males may roughhouse a bit, but unlike crickets cannibalism is not a worry (I believe they will eat naturally deceased roaches however).
I've learned a lot over the years.
Here's my first bins when I was debating between Blaptica Dubia and Blatta Lateralis (red runners). Note Lateralis can climb all but the smoothest of surfaces.
These bins had holes that were much too large. One had a ceramic heat element, the other a reptileuv.com safe heat emitter. The extra heat did help jump start my colonies but I feel they are dangerous and would not recommend it. If you do, make sure to use wire screen if placing a ceramic heating element this close to the screen.
Now on to my current versions:
I currently have 2 bins that I switch between. When one bin starts to get smelly (after about 3-6 months or so) I simply transfer the roaches to the other bin on fresh egg crates (outside to prevent escapees in the home, though I have yet to drop a roach on the ground).
BIN CONSTRUCTION:14-18 gallon Rubbermaid or Sterilite containers make the best all around bins, though you can go larger or smaller, a 14 gallon bin will be wide enough to lay an egg crate flat. I particularly like the Rubbermaid Roughneck series.
Cut a hole about 1/3 the size of the lid (I learned that about 1/3 the surface area is best to keep in enough moisture without growing mold you can cut bigger or smaller depending on the ambient humidity). Cut a piece of metal window screen (buy in a roll from Wal-Mart or hardware store) and apply the screen to the underside of the lid covering the hole. Use a hot glue gun to apply glue to a small area near the lip of the hole about 2 inches at a time (high temperature gun and sticks make for a more durable seal). Make sure the screen is pressed against the plastic of the lid when applying glue, I like to shape the glue with an ice cube once applied for a neatly shaped glue line that cools instantly (see photo below). Wipe up water with a paper towel and then place about 2 more inches of glue and repeat. Once you have about half the perimeter done start pulling the screen tight as you apply the glue for a nice neat looking screen without ripples.
Here's a few more photos regarding the screen.
Inside view of the lid:
Close ups of the hot glue line that has been cooled and shaped by an icecube:
One to Two inches of Shaved Aspen bedding at the bottom of the bin will allow you to have significantly more time between cleanings (do not use cedar!).
After a 3-6 months (4-9 months with bedding) it will be time to clean the bin, I find it's best to transfer to a new bin.
TRANSFER PROCEDURE:Prior to transfer make sure to not feed your roaches for about 5 days. Make sure the roaches are nice and warm and very active the day of the transfer. Take the current bin and the new bin outside and place a fresh egg crate on top with a small amount of food. Warm dubias are very active and within 5 minutes the new egg crate will be swarming with hungry roaches; place the bins side by side and carefully lift the fresh egg crate into the new bin. Repeat until you have a decent number of roaches in the new bin. You will end up with roaches that will not make it (possibly up to 40%); this is ok; the slow, weak, or sick roaches will be left behind as well as any fruit fly larvae and fly eggs. Be sure to properly dispose of your left over roaches. If the bin is not too bad and there are no flies (or if you have a lot of time on your hands) it is possible to transfer a larger percentage of your old bin to the new one. However unless you house multiple bearded dragons you will find that you will have an excess of roaches.
CARING FOR YOUR ROACHES: WATER:
Contrary to popular opinion, a water sponge or water gel are not needed. Water filled veggies such as celery, cucumber, and fresh greens supply all the moisture your roaches need. I never "water" my roaches and they are always plump and juicy for my dragon.
FRUITS/VEGGIES:
I do not feed my roaches fruits at all anymore; although roaches love them they carry fruit fly eggs which will infest your bin. A fruit fly infestation is
not fun. That being said you can feed your roaches practically anything that is safe for your dragon to eat and then some. My roaches always get the rest of the bag of greens when it starts to smell just a little off. Try not to put in really slimy greens that are far past their expiration as this may lead to rot, but a little slimy is ok. Carrots; big old bags of carrots are very high in nutrients and make for a safe no mold feeder for your roaches. Avoid potato; that much starch is not good for your dragon. Celery is also a great feeder for your roaches due to it's very high water content.
Feed water bearing veggies every 3-4 days, no more than your colony can completely eat to prevent molding.
PROTEIN:
There's a lot of info out there about roach protein; some sites even sell specially blended roach foods. When times are tough mid grade dog kibble will do avoid the really cheap stuff. I prefer to use high grade kibble when I can such as Merricks BEFORE GRAIN series or Wellness CORE series dry cat or dog kibble (also recommended for your cats or dogs!). I prefer DOG kibble due to it having lower fat content. I keep the high quality stuff for my dog so I always have some on hand. Many sources say to grind the kibble up, this is fine and can help baby roaches get protein easier but is only really necessary when first starting your colony or if you feed heavily from your colony (multiple reptiles). A large coffee grinder works great for making ground protein powder, if you really want to super gut load your roaches (such as when treating a sick dragon), grind up some spirulina algae (cheaply found as algae tablets in the fish food section), Bee pollen tablets, and probiotic (acidophiles blend) tablets and mix these into your ground kibble protein.
TEMPERATURE:I've kept my roaches at room temperature (about 73ºF) for extended periods (over 2 weeks) with no ill effects other than sluggishness and severely decreased breeding. That being said, a new colony should be kept at around 90-97ºF at the hottest point for about 2 months to maximize breeding. A well established colony can be kept around 80ºF and will continue to produce offspring at a good rate for a pair of adult dragons (with excess). During the summer months my bin sits in the garage, temperatures get as high as 104ºF on the hottest days in there and the roaches go crazy with activity and breeding. Don't expose your roaches to temperatures over 105º for extended periods as they will start to die off.
